All Chef Should Learn Here’: Modest Turkish Restaurant Earns 4th on List of London’s Leading Dining Destinations.

When curating a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee well-known award-winning establishments. However, tucked prominently among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung part of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

The small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. The recognition has made the proprietors completely shocked.

“I’m completely surprised,” states a family member, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their humble place earning such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its original character. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent texture.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

It is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into many times that price.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate beyond its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this culinary honour.