Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and visitors equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, UNESCO designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a prestigious roster of global cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it becomes part of a global network of over 400 cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "stands as proof of its centuries-old food heritage and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this historic city comes as hardly a shock to its residents or avid food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the limelight for what has consistently defined its heart: an profound love for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing conversation from morning until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and raised to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on many street corners, there are small establishments and carts – lesser-known delights that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is precise and complicated. The cook hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but note that their children do not want to master the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will inspire more people globally to learn these narratives and visit the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
